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The IPAs in Poland were the best I've had in Europe so far (and my Europe includes the UK). But, after having one on my last night in Warsaw, I took a chance on this, a mango lassi pale ale from Harpagan Brewery. Not sure it was entirely successful, but once the head subsided (which was quick), it w
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We didn't see a lot of interiors in Kraków, but the Bazylika Franciszkanów is one of the most striking churches I have ever seen. Despite its present structure dating from the mid-15C, somehow Wyspiański was allowed to redo the interior decorations in Art Nouveau style nearly a half-century after th
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In Kraków, we were staying in the Ghetto (not by design). From the front entrance of our building, we could see a remaining wall fragment, and in the other direction down the block, the main square where people were assembled for transport. This Ghetto was much smaller (only crammed with 15,000 peop
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We walked to one of the few remaining fragments of the Ghetto wall. It is in a "backyard" area between two streets, with almost no signage, accessed by the same gate that current inhabitants use to gain access to their apartments above the ground-floor retail shops lining the street. There was a ver
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The IPAs in Poland were the best I've had in Europe so far (and my Europe includes the UK). But, after having one on my last night in Warsaw, I took a chance on this, a mango lassi pale ale from Harpagan Brewery. Not sure it was entirely successful, but once the head subsided (w…
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New country for both of us! Budapest is reminiscent of Prague, but even prettier.
The other one was a jagodzianka, essentially a bilberry hand pie. This was the standout, so much so that I went back the morning of our departure and bought two for us to eat on the train back to Warsaw. The bakery was small, with only a c…
As in Warsaw, we mostly avoided Polish food (I have had it in Toronto, and I do not find it inspiring). We continued our streak of good craft beer places, with credible burgers and pizza. Improbably, we had Mexican and Vietnamese (not the …
We didn't see a lot of interiors in Kraków, but the Bazylika Franciszkanów is one of the most striking churches I have ever seen. Despite its present structure dating from the mid-15C, somehow Wyspiański was allowed to redo the interior de…
Kraków's Holocaust memorial, on plac Zgody (now plac Bohaterów Getta, Square of the Ghetto Heroes) is one of the more effective I have seen. Even at 10:30pm, there were still tuk-tuk tours stopping at the edge for tourists to listen to the…
Kraków has also done a better job on its waterfront than Warsaw, and none of this can be blamed on the war, because it's all modern development in both cases. It's even the same river! (The Visła, or Vistula.)
Kraków's Old Town is considerably larger than Warsaw, since it was the seat of the monarchy for so long. It also did not sustain much damage in the wars, since political power had shifted to Warsaw. The Germans didn't even do much to Wawel…
In Kraków, we were staying in the Ghetto (not by design). From the front entrance of our building, we could see a remaining wall fragment, and in the other direction down the block, the main square where people were assembled for transport…
We walked to one of the few remaining fragments of the Ghetto wall. It is in a "backyard" area between two streets, with almost no signage, accessed by the same gate that current inhabitants use to gain access to their apartments above the…
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At least the Soviets permitted the country to exist. It didn't at all for the entirety of the 19th Century. I knew the Potsdam plan of 1945 had moved Poland's borders a few hundred km to the west (keeping the eastern part) but I hadn't rea…
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